How to insulate a brick chimney. How to properly insulate a chimney pipe with your own hands and why to do it. Positive factors of an insulated chimney

Equipping a private home with a gas or solid fuel boiler or stove heating requires high-quality performance of such work in all respects. Heating efficiency depends not only on the power of the heating system, its type and the presence of modern materials in the design, but also on the quality of the thermal insulation of the heated room and its structural elements. The chimney is an element of the heating system, which, along with the boiler or firebox, is subject to the harmful effects of combustion products, combustion temperatures and temperatures environment. Insulating the chimney helps to minimize the effect of temperature changes on the chimney design, making it more efficient in terms of heat retention and more aesthetically pleasing in the overall appearance of the building. We will talk about how to properly insulate a chimney pipe with your own hands. What materials to choose, their advantages and disadvantages.

Why do you need to insulate your chimney?

The smoke exhaust system from a stove or boilers of various types is based on the main building element - the chimney. Chimneys are made of metal, asbestos, galvanized pipes and brick. During operation, chimneys are exposed to elevated temperatures and seasonal ambient temperatures. In cold weather, when the chimney is working intensively for its intended purpose, it is most actively exposed to the influence of temperature differences. The amplitude ranges from + 200 degrees or more to - 35 degrees. Constant heating and sudden cooling leads to a cyclic change in the structure of the molecular lattice of the material from which the chimney is made. A material, be it metal or brick, expands when heated and contracts when cooled.

The inside of the chimney is also susceptible to moisture. Not the absolute amount of moisture from combustion materials enters the atmosphere. A certain amount of it often settles on the inner walls of the chimney. As condensation accumulates, it becomes a constant phenomenon and takes an active part in the destruction of the walls (especially brick) of the chimney.

Such processes negatively affect the integrity of the chimney structure. Adding natural weathering building materials and the effect of aggressive components of combustion products deposited on the internal walls of the chimney, we understand that the durability of chimneys is a very dubious indicator.

But there is a solution to the problem. It does not eliminate the entire complex of aggressive factors, but effectively copes with most of them. Insulation is able to delay the action of destructive chemical and physical processes and largely minimize their effect.

Advantages of insulation

The insulated design of the chimney not only acquires protection from harmful factors, but also becomes more effective in terms of useful action. The retained heat naturally increases the efficiency of the entire heating system.

Having completed the insulation, you will not have to waste time and money on periodic chimney repairs.

Roof elements located in close proximity to the chimney will no longer be exposed to hot temperatures emanating from it.

Another advantage is that the chimney can be made to match the overall aesthetic appearance of the building, be it private house or just a garage.

Another pressing reason for insulating modern buildings, in particular chimneys, is the amount of heat loss passing through it.

What insulation materials exist?

The choice of material for insulation will perhaps be the most decisive factor in the entire work. The complexity of the installation process, the effectiveness of the result and appearance.

The following materials are used for insulating chimneys:

mineral wool insulation;
fiber insulation;
slag concrete and structural elements made from it;
broken brick;
foam glass;

Each of the above materials has a different price category, mechanical properties and density. The material should be selected taking into account the local conditions of the chimney. It is important to take into account the ease of installation, since the insulation of such structures involves working at heights, and this is not something to joke about.

The use of flammable materials is strictly prohibited.
It is better to choose a material that is pliable and light. Cinder block is used by professional builders based on a developed project with calculated loads on the roof and load-bearing structures. Self-insulation is much easier to do with mineral wool.
Pay attention to the operating recommendations specified in the manufacturer's instructions.

Do not load the roof structure. Try to approach the matter from the point of view of the lightest possible insulating structure.

The design of an insulated chimney and its features

The figure shows an example of insulation of a chimney pipe with mineral wool and a galvanized sheet (left), and insulation with mineral wool and decorated slag concrete (right). This example is considered for a chimney made of asbestos-cement pipe.

A comparative example of how thermal insulation works is shown in the figure, as they say: “Find 10 differences.”

A layer of insulation material protects the structure from condensation inside and from weathering outside.

How to insulate a chimney pipe with your own hands: basic design parameters

There are several ways to insulate yourself. The difference between them is due to the material used.

For the “Rich Way” option, you can use a ready-made chimney sandwich. This product is manufactured at enterprises and combines the optimal performance and properties of an insulated chimney. All you have to do is assemble it like a construction set, based on the desired height of the structure.

Chimneys made from asbestos-cement pipes are insulated in two ways. The first involves wrapping the pipe with insulation (mineral or basalt wool), fixing it with wire and putting the casing on top of the insulation. The second method is implemented by lining the pipe with special slag concrete blocks and, if necessary, insulating it with mineral wool, as in the first example. This method is more labor-intensive and expensive.

1. An asbestos-cement pipe is wrapped with a 100 mm thick layer of heat insulation.

It should be taken into account that the insulation tends to shrink when it is fixed. Its minimum thickness (in a compressed state) must be at least 60 mm.

2. Fix the insulation with wire along its entire length. In this case, it is necessary to maintain the same thickness along the entire length.

Do not use wire with an electrical insulating layer (wire) to fix the heat insulator. When the chimney heats up, the rubber or vinyl insulation of the wire may not withstand the high temperature and melt. Thus violating the physical properties of the insulation and its integrity.

It is better to use thin steel wire.

3. The next stage involves wrapping the insulation with a galvanized sheet.

The sheet can be used up to 1 mm thick; it is more flexible and easier to install. To determine the circumference, use a tape measure, but add 20mm to the actual measurement. This is necessary for the overlap, which will serve as a connection point with rivets or screws.

If possible, roll the edges at the seam to give it an ideal circle shape.

It is better to place the section on the pipe with the seam facing inward. The appearance of this design is more aesthetic.

The final stage of insulating an asbestos chimney is the installation of a protective cone to prevent rainfall from entering the chimney pipe.

This method of insulation is one of the most economical. It also provides for relatively simple installation.

No matter how simple the process of performing work at height may seem, you should not expose yourself to thoughtless risks. Therefore, all work on insulating chimneys of any design must be carried out by two people.

Another popular way to insulate an asbestos chimney is to use chimney bricks. The space between the brick and the pipe is filled with insulation (mineral wool).

This method is more expensive due to the cost of the brick. Brickwork also weathers over time.

Chimney made of steel pipe.

Insulation of a chimney made of a steel pipe is carried out in a similar way. It should be taken into account that steel has greater thermal conductivity compared to asbestos cement, so it is better to use basalt wool. The clamp is also made of galvanized sheet steel.

Insulation of a brick chimney is the most labor-intensive process compared to other types.

One of effective ways- this is plastering the chimney. This method involves laying a mixture of cement, lime and slag over the entire area of the outer surface. The layer thickness must be at least 30 mm.

After applying the first layer, it needs to be allowed to dry. This will help identify cracks in the applied layer and eliminate them. The subsequent layer can be applied after laying the mineral wool layer. After which another layer of plaster is applied. Subsequently, such a chimney can be whitewashed or painted. Alternatively, you can use facing brick, but this significantly makes the structure heavier.

Required materials and tools

The materials required for insulation are listed in the examples discussed.

Tools required to perform insulation:

plumbing tools (hammer, clamps, pliers, screwdrivers, etc.);
measuring instrument (tape measure, ruler, square, level, construction pencil, felt-tip pen);
mounting knife for cutting insulation;
a riveter and a set of rivets for connecting a galvanized casing (or self-tapping screws);
electric drill and portable cable extension 220 V;
drills with a diameter of 4 mm for making holes for rivets;
for work on applying cement mortar you will need a spatula, trowel and a container for mixing the mortar;
You may need a construction syringe with a tube of bitumen mastic to seal small cracks. But mastic may also be needed for additional waterproofing of the plaster.

Bitumen mastic can be diluted with gasoline if it has hardened. In this case, the amount of gasoline is determined by eye. Add a little to the mastic and stir until it has a sticky consistency.

We should not forget that any method of chimney insulation is work at height.

Rate workplace taking into account all possible risks. Try to minimize them. Prepare the ladder in advance, check its condition, reliability and stability. If you have to move on a roof with slate flooring, walk on the laid boards, this way the weight is better distributed over the area. The board should be laid across the waves of the slate. Check the integrity of the ropes used to lift materials and tools. If possible, secure yourself with a rope, wrapping it around your waist and securely fastening it to the supporting element of the structure. (IN ideal conditions- this is the use of a mounting safety belt). Work in special clothing.

Errors leading to undesirable consequences

Sometimes, in order to save money, a pipeline is passed through the ceiling without insulation. Such actions are undesirable; insignificant savings can lead to tragic consequences.

To prevent this situation, the chimney should be insulated along its entire length.

The exception is the area in close proximity to the furnace or boiler. It is necessary to leave a section up to 500 mm long uninsulated. This will prevent overheating of the insulation, as it may lose its properties due to critical overheating. Data on the critical temperature for a particular material are indicated by its manufacturer in the operating instructions.

Experience shows that thermal insulation of furnace equipment is becoming increasingly in demand. The costs of insulation or even reconstruction of the smoke exhaust system are more than recouped due to economical heat consumption.

A wide range of materials and construction solutions allows you to use your imagination and make things more interesting.

How to insulate a chimney pipe with your own hands: choice of materials, technology, instructions with photos

Advantages of various thermal insulation materials. How to insulate a chimney pipe with your own hands, why to do it.

How to make non-flammable thermal insulation of chimneys

When fuel burns in stoves and fireplaces, carbon monoxide is formed. They are removed through the chimney. Despite its apparent simplicity, this design is complex. Chimneys are installed to provide the necessary draft, so they should be correctly brought to the roof, the height determined and connected to the roofing. Properly made thermal insulation for chimneys is also important.

Reasons for insulating chimneys

Furnace gases escaping from the furnace to the outside have a high temperature. When they rush up the chimney channel, condensation forms on its inner walls. This leads to the following problems:

if moisture is absorbed into the chimney material, it will deteriorate over time;
sometimes water droplets settle on the surface of the outlet channels, which reduces their permeability and allows smoke to leak into the room;
when condensate constantly flows down the walls of the chimney, smudges, hanging drops and an unpleasant odor appear.

Thermal insulation of the chimney helps to avoid these troubles and extends its service life.

Pay attention! The chimney is insulated to prevent rapid cooling. If you do it incorrectly, you can’t count on a positive result.

Methods for insulating furnace ducts

How to isolate the furnace channel depends on the material from which it was made. You can make insulation using:

crushed bricks;
slag;
expanded clay;
basalt or mineral wool;
kaolin, etc.

After installing the containment shell, the smoke exhaust structure is lined. For this purpose it is used:

brick;
slag concrete and reinforced concrete slabs;
galvanized metal casings;
wooden boards;
profiled sheet, etc.

Note! The easiest way is to buy a ready-made insulated sandwich pipe and install it at the stage when the chimney is being built.

Let's take a look at some thermal insulation options separately.

Basalt wool insulation

This method of protecting chimneys is attractive due to its accessibility and is therefore used more often than others. Basalt wool has a thickness of 20-100 mm and can withstand temperatures up to 750 degrees. This fire-resistant material is wrapped in several layers around the pipe and fixed with wire. A layer of plaster is applied on top.

Lining the chimney with stainless steel sheets is done in the following order:

measure the perimeter of the pipe, including insulation;
cut a piece of sheet steel up to one meter long and a width equal to the perimeter of the structure plus an allowance for fastening;
round the sheet and finish the edges with a roller;
put the resulting form on the stove chimney, pull it together and fasten it with metal screws;
In the same way, install several more metal casings on top of each other (make sure that the seams run at an angle of 120˚).

Note! If you do not use steel casings, the insulation will not last long and you will have to replace it. Even if you insulate the chimney with foil or film, they will not be able to prevent moisture from penetrating into the basalt wool.

Applications of kaolin

Another method of thermal protection of chimneys is the use of kaolin. The material is characterized as:

Work on installing non-combustible thermal insulation for chimneys is carried out in the following order:

first plaster the stove channel;
then glue kaolin sheets to the wet plaster;
Finally, sew up the chimney with facing material.

Insulation with mineral wool

Thermal insulation using mineral wool is done as follows.

Build a metal profile sheathing around the chimney. The profile size is selected depending on the thickness of the insulation, and the lathing pitch depends on the width of the insulating sheets.
Attach to profile mineral wool in several layers (do not forget to space the seams).
Wrap the finished structure with vapor barrier film and seal the joints with tape.

Pay attention! Sheets of metal corrugated sheets can be used as finishing. They are fixed to the sheathing using special screws with rubber gaskets.

How to insulate a chimney also depends on the material from which it was made.

Chimneys - nuances of insulation

Thermal insulation of steel pipes

The chimney, made of a round steel pipe, is insulated using a ready-made metal case. Large diameter galvanized pipe is suitable for this purpose. The difference in the diameters of the chimney and insulation is 16-20 cm. Thermal insulation is installed in this way.

Place the casing on the steel chimney.
Pour expanded clay, broken brick or slag into the space formed between the elements. You can also compact mineral wool, basalt wool or fiberglass between the pipes.
Fill the open area with cement mortar, waterproof it and install a protective casing on top.

Note! The profile steel pipe is sheathed using wooden panels or metal sheets (corrugated sheeting). The distance between the components of the structure is 8-10 cm. The space is filled with insulation and securely sealed on top.

Insulation of brick chimney

IN in this case preference is given to mineral wool, which is attached as follows:

cut out pieces of insulation the size of which corresponds to the area of the side walls of the pipe;
attach the blanks to the brick using plastic dowels with round heads, or use tape (this option is lightweight, but not reliable);
cover the attached material with asbestos-cement slabs, corrugated sheets or bricks.

Important! To reduce heat loss, plaster the brick on the outside of the channel, and then cover it with a frost-resistant compound.

Thermal protection of asbestos-cement pipes

Insulating chimney pipes from asbestos cement is done like this.

First, clean the outer surface of the chimney from dust and dirt.
Make a folding metal casing consisting of two halves. When assembled, its diameter should be 12-16 cm larger than the diameter of the pipe. The height of the case can vary within one meter.
Place the bottom galvanized casing onto the chimney.
Fill or compact protective material into the resulting space.
Install the next case and reinstall the insulation.
Cut the top casing together with the asbestos cement pipe at a slight angle.
Cover the insulation with a thin layer of cement mortar.

Note! If you do not install a metal case, the mineral wool will become wet, heavy, crumpled or frayed in the wind. Birds, rodents or cats also take away the insulation.

Insulation of the chimney in the ceiling

When a metal chimney passes through a wooden ceiling, the distance between them must be at least 30 cm. If the chimney is lined with brick, then this value is reduced to 10 cm. The opening is filled with basalt wool and closed from below and above with a metal sheet. Make sure that the chimney is securely fastened to the ceiling.

Thermal insulation for chimneys: types of insulation and methods of protecting chimneys, Portal about pipes

How to insulate a chimney - non-flammable thermal insulation. What materials are used to insulate chimney pipes in the ceiling? Methods and nuances of insulating structures made of

Insulating a chimney in a bathhouse - how to wrap and insulate a metal pipe

One of the most important stages in the construction of a bathhouse is the installation of a chimney. And insulating the chimney of a bathhouse is a mandatory process during its construction, which has two goals: fire safety and corrosion protection.

If you do not make thermal insulation, then under the influence of temperature changes condensation will form, gradually flowing inside and contributing to the destruction of the structure itself.

Insulated smoke exhaust channels warm up faster, making the sauna stove work much more efficiently.

Depending on what the sauna chimney is made of, various materials are used for its thermal insulation.

There are several types of already insulated chimneys for sauna stoves, the most common of which are sandwich pipes made of stainless metal.

There are also ceramic sections that are already installed in expanded clay concrete modules.

And now about everything in more detail.

Why insulate a chimney?

During operation of a sauna stove, its chimney becomes hot, and its inevitable close proximity to flammable materials can lead to a fire.

If the chimney pipe is made of brick, it heats up less, and if the chimney is made of metal, then much more.

Metal pipes heat up over 600 C°, and their proximity to the wooden lining of the steam room is very dangerous, especially if the bathhouse is directly adjacent to residential buildings.

The second, no less important problem is the appearance of condensation in the chimney. Condensation is the main enemy of all smoke removal systems.

This is not just moisture that forms on the walls of the chimney, but an aqueous solution of sulfuric acid, which can destroy almost any material. It appears as a result of the passage of heated air through a still cold chimney.

As a result of the impact of condensation on uninsulated brick chimney the masonry is destroyed, since it has the ability to penetrate microcracks in the brick, and when freezing, it expands. Metal smoke ducts also suffer greatly from condensation.

Metal of ordinary brands is not resistant to acids, so it quickly becomes unusable when exposed to condensation.

The only way to combat the appearance of condensation is to insulate the smoke exhaust ducts, in which the pipe will cool less and the sauna stove will quickly reach its operating combustion mode.

Insulation materials

Chimney insulation can be done using various methods using non-combustible materials.

The most common are:

Thermal insulation of the chimney with basalt wool and glass wool. Insulation materials used for both large surfaces of brick chimneys and pipes of relatively small diameter. Available as filler, in rolls or in the form of mats. For its use, it is recommended to manufacture an additional casing.
A method of filling the space around the chimney with heat-insulating material: expanded clay, slag, broken bricks, special heat-insulating granules. This method involves making an additional chimney casing.
Plastering. This is the most common, until recently, method of insulating brick chimneys. For this purpose, a slag-lime solution was used, applied in a layer of 5-7 cm to the reinforcing mesh. After drying, a sand-cement mortar of the same thickness was applied to it. But when the smoke exhaust system was heated and cooled, such insulation cracked and required annual repairs, so this method is considered unjustified from the point of view of labor costs and efficiency.
Chimney insulation with modern materials made of foamed polyethylene. “Teploizol” or “Folgoizol” is produced in rolls, is light in weight and has good elasticity, and cuts well, which makes it accessible to even non-professionals to work with. This is the simplest and most inexpensive method of insulating chimneys, widely used today.

Choosing insulation for a chimney

The choice of insulation for insulating a chimney with your own hands must be approached carefully and seriously.

You shouldn’t buy the cheapest one, because it should have good thermal insulation properties, be easy to use, and not require additional reinforcement load-bearing structures roofs and ceilings, be non-toxic and non-flammable.

Stone or basalt wool is an excellent thermal insulation made from basalt stones.

This insulation can withstand prolonged exposure to fairly high temperatures and does not burn, even when in contact with an open fire. In addition, when heated, it does not emit any toxic or unpleasant odors. Such insulation can be safely called an environmentally friendly material.

Glass wool is a type of mineral wool insulation made from waste from the glass industry. There are a large number of voids between its fibers, so it retains heat well.

Glass wool does not burn and does not absorb moisture, and, in addition, is not susceptible to rotting and rodents. It is not expensive and easy to use. Most often produced in slabs and rolls.

Teploizol or folgoizol are multifunctional types of insulation made of polyethylene foam and covered with a sheet of aluminum foil. It is produced in rolls and has a thickness from 2 to 10 mm. They can perfectly insulate the chimney of a bathhouse, since these insulation materials can withstand heating up to 150C°-170C°.

We make insulation with our own hands

Insulation of a chimney using mineral, basalt or glass wool can be done in two ways: insulation under a casing or insulation of a chimney without a casing.

In order to insulate a chimney using mineral wool mats, you need to cut out several pieces of slab from them that will correspond to the sides of the pipe from the outside.

Then, using wire stitching, secure them to the chimney.

Important! There should be no voids left between the layer of thermal insulation, otherwise the insulation will lose its effectiveness.

To insulate a metal pipe, you need to wrap it with basalt wool and secure it with wire around the entire perimeter. After that, put a second pipe of larger diameter on the chimney to make a kind of sandwich.

This method of thermal insulation of chimneys is the most effective and simple, but it allows reducing heat loss by more than half, as well as significantly reducing the fire hazard and the formation of condensate in smoke exhaust systems and protecting them from destruction.

Thus, thermal insulation helps to increase thermal efficiency and safe use of stoves. At the same time, it gives the building and the structure itself a more aesthetic appearance.

Chimney insulation

How to insulate a metal pipe in a bathhouse. Materials for chimney thermal insulation, fire safety and do-it-yourself insulation installation.

Variety of insulating materials for baths
Folgoizol
Teploizol
Sandwich pipe as a chimney
Method of insulating a chimney in a Russian bath
Insulation of the stove in the bathhouse

The operation of the bathhouse must be absolutely safe for humans. To prevent fires from coming into contact with a hot stove or chimney pipe, walls and ceilings, as well as hot surfaces, should be thoroughly insulated. We will tell you in detail how to insulate a chimney pipe in a sauna in this article.

As sad statistics say, during 2014, up to 70% of fires in private baths occurred due to incorrect thermal insulation of metal pipes. Therefore, to help our readers protect themselves and their guests, we will tell you about the materials, as well as the technology for insulating pipes in a bathhouse.

The favorite material for bathhouses in Russia is wood. However, it tends to be very flammable. To avoid this, people have long learned to insulate the chimney in the bathhouse, as well as the stove and all surfaces - walls, ceilings. For these purposes, any available means were used - clay, asbestos or any other non-flammable materials with a low degree of thermal conductivity.

Another argument in favor of thermal insulation of the chimney is that in this case the pipe will cool much more slowly and condensation will not accumulate in it.

It is a mistake to think that a good solution regarding how to insulate a pipe in a bathhouse would be to mount sheet iron on the ceiling. The metal can heat up very quickly, which in no way prevents fire, so it is not suitable for thermal insulation.

As an alternative to lining the pipe in the bathhouse, you can use red refractory brick.

Thermal insulation of the chimney in the ceiling! HOW???

However, for such a design it is necessary to foresee the size of the room in advance, strengthen the foundation and select a design.

Among the modern materials that solve the question of how to wrap a metal chimney pipe in a bathhouse, the following are offered on the market:

Let's look at each of them in more detail.

Folgoizol

It is a two-layer material consisting of a heat-insulating component and foil. Thanks to the reflective layer, the room does not cool down so quickly, because up to 90% of the heat is retained inside the bath, so it is a very high-quality insulator.

Folgoizol is highly environmentally friendly, because thick food foil is used as a raw material. This material is not afraid of ultraviolet radiation and strong temperature changes - the operating range is from -65 ºС to +175 ºС. Therefore, it will be a completely worthy choice for wrapping a pipe in a bathhouse.

Note that foil insulation is often installed not only around the chimney, but also on the walls and ceiling of the steam room. It serves for high-quality vapor and waterproofing, and also insulates the bathhouse well.

The sauna, lined with foil insulation on the inside, can be compared to a thermos based on its operating principle. It heats up quickly and cools down very slowly.

Teploizol

One of the options for wrapping a pipe in a bathhouse is thermal insulation. To produce thermal insulation, foamed polyethylene is used, hidden between two layers of foil, and the top layer of foil in the material is designed to protect the chimney from overheating.

Teploizol appeared on the building materials market relatively recently. The thickness of such material ranges from 2-10 mm.

Thermal insulation is easy to manipulate - you just need to wrap it around the chimney and secure it with metallized tape.

Sandwich pipe as a chimney

Recently, various manufacturers have begun to produce new safe sandwich pipes for baths and saunas. With such a design, there is no longer any need to worry about how to protect the pipe in the bathhouse (more details: “Advantages of a pipe for a sandwich bathhouse when building a chimney”). The design of such pipes involves quick and convenient assembly of sections inserted into each other. Moreover, it is optimal to use such pipes with an iron stove.

The sandwich pipe is a multilayer structure, inside of which there is a stainless steel frame, then insulation made of mineral or basalt wool is laid, and a galvanized casing is placed on top. Thanks to this structure, soot does not accumulate inside the chimney, the outer layer of metal does not experience overheating, and the entire structure looks beautiful and laconic.

However, we note that it is advisable to install sandwich pipes in dry saunas. But for traditional Russian baths with high humidity, you should choose slightly different thermal insulation options.

Method of insulating a chimney in a Russian bath

If a heater is installed in the bathhouse, then fire-resistant bricks are used to build the chimney. It can stay warm for a long time.

When building a brick chimney, you should not save, but it is advisable to approach this issue very responsibly, because its durability depends on the quality of the work performed.

In this case the best way How to isolate a pipe in a bathhouse from the ceiling, roof and other roof elements, there will be sheet metal fastening on these surfaces.

Where the chimney comes into contact with the roof and ceiling, the surfaces should be protected with asbestos sheets. On the walls near the pipe you need to fasten sheets of galvanized steel. It is not advisable to use iron in this case, since it is susceptible to corrosion. Read also: “How to make a chimney in a bathhouse through a wall - device options.”

Alternatively, you can install around the chimney protective screen, into which to pour expanded clay. It will serve as additional fire protection for all wooden surfaces of the bathhouse, and will also serve as a heat accumulator.

However, complete safety in a bathhouse cannot be achieved by insulating pipes alone. Similar actions must be performed with the stove, walls and ceiling.

Insulation of the stove in the bathhouse

Currently, bathhouses often use simple metal stoves, which are lined with sheet metal on the sides and back, and installed directly on the foundation. To ensure that heat is retained in the bathhouse for a long time and to make it presentable, the stove can be lined with red refractory bricks.

Currently, asbestos sheets are no longer used for stove insulation, since it releases toxic substances when heated.

It is advisable to use natural felt to insulate the stove. Although this material is quite expensive, it is an excellent insulator. In addition, when a spark hits the felt, it does not flare up, but begins to smolder, so you will immediately notice the problem by the characteristic pungent odor.

When installing the stove on a wooden floor, you should first lay felt in two layers, and then lay the brick in three rows. Sheet metal is mounted on the walls and floor around the stove in pieces 50-70 cm high.

We hope that this article was able to answer the most frequently asked questions among novice builders. Let us remind you that high-quality thermal insulation of the chimney, stove, as well as all surfaces of the bathhouse will not only keep you warm longer, but also protect yourself and your loved ones.

Protective materials for wooden structures
Furnace pipe insulation: teploizol
You can wrap the chimney with foil insulation
To the rescue - sandwich pipes
Pipe insulation in a traditional Russian bathhouse
Fire protection of the furnace

If you decide to build a bathhouse, then do not forget about high-quality insulation of the stove, chimney, walls and ceiling. Otherwise, you may experience serious problems with a fire in the ceiling of the building. Therefore, we will try to dwell in more detail on a pressing problem today - insulating a pipe in a bathhouse with our own hands.

Protective materials for wooden structures

Due to the fact that the chimney and stove heat up quickly, a fire may occur. Moreover, according to tradition, the material for the bathhouse is wood. Back in the old days, it was customary to insulate the walls, ceiling, stove, chimney with an asbestos layer, clay and other available materials that conduct thermal energy rather poorly and are resistant to elevated temperatures.

So how to cover the stove pipe today? Insulation of the chimney structure is necessary both for fire safety and protection from condensation, so that cooling occurs more slowly and the smoke exhaust system lasts longer.

It is a mistaken belief that several metal sheets used to cover the ceiling around the chimney will be enough to insulate from fire.

How and with what to insulate a chimney pipe

After all, metal also heats up quickly, so it will not protect against fire, and it will also not be suitable as a heat insulator.

Red brick is not always needed for pipe lining, although it is endowed with excellent thermal insulation properties. The reason is that such a design does not match the design of every bathhouse.

To better understand how to wrap a chimney pipe against fire, consider two options for insulating materials in the form:

Furnace pipe insulation: teploizol

This is a unique material, the structure of which includes foamed polyethylene, located between a pair of sheets of foil. Using thermal insulation, you can qualitatively insulate a chimney, and do it yourself.

The thickness of the thermal insulation varies from 2 to 10 mm, and the thicker the material, the greater its resistance to high temperatures.

The top layer of foil serves as reliable protection for the pipe from significant overheating. Using wire or adhesive tape, a metal craftsman attaches thermal insulation, which is then wrapped around the chimney.

You can wrap the chimney with foil insulation

Modern material includes two layers: heat insulator and foil. The second one plays a reflective function and can save up to 90% of the thermal energy in the building. Folgoizol is a harmless material compared to other analogues, since the foil is compacted food grade. The material is resistant to ultraviolet radiation and elevated temperatures within the range of -65 to +175 degrees Celsius, a good insulator.

For those who don’t yet know how to insulate a chimney pipe in a sauna, we recommend covering the steam room ceiling, walls and chimney with foil insulation. As a result, you will get a room whose design resembles a thermos. The heat will remain in the sauna, but the bathhouse will quickly gain temperature and then slowly cool down.

To the rescue - sandwich pipes

For those who want to install a safe chimney in their bathhouse, we suggest using a sandwich pipe. This design includes several sections that can easily be placed inside each other, i.e. looks like a multi-layer cake.

Here are the main components of a sandwich pipe:

stainless steel layer (inside);
insulation in the form of basalt/mineral wool (in the middle);
steel with zinc coating (outside).

This creative design represents the insulation of a chimney built into common system, and is designed to solve two problems simultaneously:

protection against soot accumulation inside;
maintaining optimal temperature outside.

The sandwich pipe is easy to assemble yourself and can be used for a sauna with an iron stove or bathhouse. What to do if you built a Russian steam room with a brick stove? Below we will consider how to line the pipe in this situation in order to protect it from ignition.

Pipe insulation in a traditional Russian bathhouse

At elevated temperatures, fire-resistant red brick retains its performance properties, therefore it is in demand when constructing a chimney in a bathhouse with a stone stove. In this case, you are guaranteed protection of the pipe from fire and long-term heat retention.

The service life of the structure depends on how well the brick pipe is constructed. Do not skimp on materials during the construction of the chimney, because... then the repairs will cost you much more.

Let's take a closer look at how to insulate a pipe in a bathhouse from the ceiling:

Use asbestos to cover the pipe outlet on the ceiling and through the roof.
Using galvanized material, insulate the walls on the inside of the pipe. Standard iron sheets are completely unsuitable for this purpose due to their tendency to corrosion.
Make a box around the pipe where it passes through the ceiling.
Pour expanded clay inside the box to retain heat and protect the wooden floors from fire.

You have professionally wrapped the pipe, but this is not the end of the chimney installation work. The next step is measures to insulate the stove, ceiling and walls of the bathhouse.

Fire protection of the furnace

Modern metal stoves are mounted on a foundation, while sheathing the walls on the back and sides with sheets of the same material. If you cover the stove yourself with only metal, its appearance will not be very aesthetic. It's better to do external masonry red brick, which insulates the stove from fire and retains heat in the bathhouse.

Due to the fact that asbestos releases toxic substances at elevated temperatures, it is not recommended for use in a steam room. Natural felt is considered harmless and is also a good insulator. In terms of price, this material is more expensive than asbestos sheets, and when smoldering it emits a specific smell (felt does not catch fire), which can be immediately felt.

If you intend to install the stove on a wooden floor, then first it is better to lay felt material in a couple of layers, then lay brick in three rows. For walls and floors, it is recommended to lay metal sheets as an insulator, the height of which varies from 50 to 70 cm.

How to wrap a chimney pipe to prevent fire

How to insulate a metal chimney pipe for a bathhouse?

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How to cover the walls around the stove in a bathhouse

Alexey777 Aug 30 2005 07:59:49	flat slate, asbestos (I really didn’t find it in the sheets, but it seems like there should be), drywall, something else? metal stove
A. Meshcheksky (Troitsk) Aug 30 2005 08:52:42	How far from the walls?
Alexey777 Aug 30 2005 09:04:02	on one side (on the side of the stove) along the entire height from the wall 20cm and on the front side of the stove the height from the middle to the top of the stove from the wall is 5 cm.
YourOK (Moscow) Aug 30 2005 09:56:25	2Aleksey777: Slate can shoot out, asbestos is harmful... In my embrasure around the Buleryan firebox it is lined with red brick, inside the steam room - half the height of the stove (to the water tank), too, but facing. The joints with wood are filled with clay and covered with platband. If stones and/or a chimney are close to the wall, it - the wall - should be covered with some kind of sheet material so that there is no dark spots, I have a duralumin sheet folded in half. Well, up on the ceiling, too, as firefighters teach.
Romson (Saint Petersburg) Aug 30 2005 10:16:24	2Aleksey777: With such a small distance from the wall, you need to make a heat-insulating sandwich. You can make it from a metal sheet, preferably from polished aluminum or stainless steel, they reflect heat well. This is done like this: cut a metal tube into 20 mm pieces. These will be spacer washers for the sheets. Now there is 20 mm basalt insulation from the wall. and a sheet on these washers, then an air gap and another sheet on the washers.
AA (Moscow) Aug 30 2005 10:18:13	It is also important to take into account the design of the furnace. If the oven is a convection type, it means it has double walls, and the temperature of the outer walls is low. If the stove is based on the principle of a conventional potbelly stove, then the radiation from the walls is high, and serious protection is needed. The optimal (and beautiful) brick is flat or “on edge” with an air gap from the stove along the entire height. You can use metal (stainless steel is better, but more expensive) with a gap from the combustible wall surface of at least 10 mm. Gaps at the bottom and top are required to ensure convection air flow. Galvanizing is not allowed - it is harmful. Cheap, but not so aesthetically pleasing - a sheet of DSP. Installation is similar to metal.
WIK Aug 30 2005 10:29:57	Is it necessary to lay basalt wool under the CBPB sheet? (similar to a stainless steel sheet?)
YourOK (Moscow) Aug 30 2005 10:46:32	2Aleksey777: Ahh... I thought that we were talking about sealing the opening in the wall through which the stove firebox goes into another room - as is normally done... Alexey, you haven’t clearly outlined the situation with the stove - its design and installation diagram are unclear, where the gaps are - it’s not at all clear: by the way, why is the “front side” of it facing the wall?? Well, protecting the wall in the steam room is not the most difficult thing in this matter, it’s the same sandwich if the brick doesn’t fit...
Alexey777 Aug 30 2005 10:54:16	thanks for the advice, I’ll do the front with iron, in principle there’s already a heater there, the combustible surface is lower, and on the side there is a brick to the wall to the middle, and from the middle there is probably also iron.
Alexey777 Aug 30 2005 11:00:49	2YourOK: the front side that is higher than the firebox already goes to the wall, but what is lower is the same. In the picture, side A is the front, B is the side. picture
YourOK (Moscow) Aug 30 2005 11:22:09	2Aleksey777: Well, finally... now it’s clear :-)) A gap B = 20 cm is enough, IMHO, not to protect the wall. The main thing is to correctly seal the opening. Once again - good luck!
AA (Moscow) Aug 30 2005 11:47:33	2WIK: “Is it necessary to lay basalt wool under the CBPB sheet? (similar to a stainless steel sheet?)" No need. An air gap is needed so that air can circulate from bottom to top between the burning surface and the protective sheet. Or you are making a sandwich panel. Two sheets of metal or, for example, DSP, with basalt wool between them. (In the case described, I consider this to be reinsurance.) But even in this case, a gap between the panel and the wall is desirable. It is safer because it provides constant cooling with circulating air. Cutting with filler (for example, basalt wool) is done where it is necessary to ensure the tightness of the structure: passages through the ceiling, walls, etc.
Romson (Saint Petersburg) Aug 30 2005 12:22:49	2AA: I would lay it everywhere with cotton wool. Such matters are important that I think there is no point in saving on fire safety. At my place, I sewed everything around the stove 1 meter high and the width of two chimneys.
YourOK (Moscow) Aug 31 2005 11:30:34	2Romson: That's right... in the attic by the chimney, I hope everything is ok too? PS fire is a terrible thing... last week we were extinguishing a utility block at a neighbor's dacha... we really didn't extinguish it - it was no longer possible, it was burning so much that it was pointless to water, and it was impossible to come close and throw a bucket of water - it was hot... we just watered the wall of his house , so as not to catch fire, because his utility block is only 2 meters from the house... So it's better to be safe than UNDER...
AA (Moscow) Aug 31 2005 16:43:42	2Romson,2YourOK: Nobody argues about security. I insisted on providing an air gap for free air circulation. This is noticeably more effective than just a thick enclosing structure, and also saves space. If there is no air gap, then the furnace gradually heats up a nearby wall with radiant heat, and we simply don’t know what is happening there in the depths. In addition, this design retains heat for a long time, and the risk of fire depends on two conditions: temperature and exposure time. I have already written in this forum (though they did not agree with me) that there are known cases of so-called spontaneous combustion during prolonged exposure to temperatures of only 100 degrees. This scientific fact. And this is possible if heat removal from the heated object is not ensured.
Romson (Saint Petersburg) Aug 31 2005 18:31:00	2AA: Read carefully: “Now the basalt insulation from the wall is 20 mm. and a sheet on these washers, then an air gap and another sheet on the washers.”
Serg (Samara, Russia) Aug 31 2005 22:01:42	2AA: > there are known cases of so-called spontaneous combustion during prolonged exposure to temperatures of only 100 degrees. This is a scientific fact. What should I do? Best regards, Sergey
AA (Moscow) 1 Sep. 2005 10:51:25	2Serg: > There are known cases of so-called spontaneous combustion of people - the object is, in principle, non-flammable - too wet, temperature ~37 degrees. Scientific fact. What should I do? Drink more raspberry tea or take an aspirin tablet. But more often they burn at a temperature of 40 degrees :-)) 2Romson: I paid attention to the washers. I simply wrote about reasonable sufficiency under the conditions that were given. This refers to the side wall. And if the metal stove does not have a protective convection screen (double walls), then the side protection must be made of two sheets with spaces between them, both from the wall and from the stove. On the firebox side, naturally, it is better to make part of the wall (along the height of the stove) from fireproof material. And then, without knowing all the conditions, it is difficult to draw an unambiguous conclusion. We offer options - the owner makes the decision.
WIK 1 Sep. 2005 12:09:23	Are two sheets of basalt wool (asbestos sheet) enough, or do you need brick protection on the side?
AA (Moscow) 1 Sep. 2005 13:21:42	2WIK: Describe the installation conditions, type of stove, wall material. We must proceed from this. If the stove is factory-made, then the instructions should indicate the minimum distances to combustible structures. But they are usually stupidly taken from SNIPs without taking into account all the listed conditions and they can be reduced by using fireproof cuttings. Read all of the above again and make a decision, bearing in mind that for a restful sleep there is no such thing as little protection.
AA (Moscow) 1 Sep. 2005 13:34:25	SNIP http://www.rusbani.ru/snip/2_04_05_91.html
petr78 (Moscow) 20 Sep. 2005 21:10:56	dear! In my bathhouse there is a wall made of timber, at a distance of 30 cm there is an iron stove. To protect against fire, I want to punch a metal sheet onto the wall, then lay a facing brick (half a brick thick) with a gap of 10-15 mm. Question: is this enough to protect the timber wall from fire?
YourOK (Moscow) 21 Sep. 2005 10:42:26	2petr78: Does the stove have a double wall? gets very hot - red hot? At first glance - sheet + brick = too much... If it heats up slightly (have you already heated it?) - below 100 degrees. - then one sheet, but with an air gap of 2-3 cm from the tree, will be enough. Although your 30 cm is quite enough to do nothing at all, you will see over time, if anything happens, take extra. measures. This has already been discussed above - read it. Is brick for beauty? Maybe nothing will happen - if you also cover the stove itself (Buleryan?) about 0.5 meters from the floor, with a gap of 1-2 cm from the iron - there will be less IR radiation and so that its crooked legs are not visible - up to the water heating tank ... But then the leaf is of no use. But with the firebox it’s not clear - where does it go? The main problem with it is when it goes through the wall into the adjacent room...

Every owner faces the problem of chimney insulation. country house or cottages with stove heating. To the question: is it necessary to do this, the answer is unequivocal - yes. This will protect the channels for removing combustion products from premature destruction and extend their service life.

Why does the chimney need to be insulated?

In the case of a chimney, insulation is not quite the correct term; in fact, we are talking about thermal insulation. It must be done to prevent rapid destruction of the chimney pipe. There are several reasons for this:

Steam compounds with combustion products are poisonous. If they enter a room, they can cause poisoning to the inhabitants.

The essence of chimney insulation is the creation of a heat-insulating barrier around the pipe, reducing the temperature difference with the environment. First of all, areas passing through unheated rooms and located outside the building should be insulated.

Thermal insulation options

Before you start work, you need to decide on the insulation material. You can use almost any, you just have to take into account that the chimney heats up to high temperatures, which means the insulation must be heat-resistant and non-flammable.

Mineral, basalt or glass wool. The most commonly used material. Sold in mats or in rolls. The material is non-flammable, has good thermal insulation properties, and often has an additional waterproofing layer in the form of a thick film. It is worth considering that cotton wool, when wet, loses most of its thermal insulation properties and gradually collapses. Outdoors, the structure should be protected with a casing made of metal or other material.

Basalt wool is sold in rolls or in the form of mats and may have a waterproofing film on the outer surface
Bulk insulation. These are broken bricks, expanded clay, sand and other materials. In this case, you also cannot do without a casing. It is built around the chimney, the free space is filled with insulation. Retains heat well and is cheap.

Expanded clay is poured into a casing that is built around the chimney
Metal foil. Shields heat and cold, reducing temperature differences. Used as an additional layer with fiber insulation.
Ready-made cylindrical insulation with a foil screen. It has different diameters, which greatly facilitates solving the problem of thermal insulation. The insulation is placed on the pipe and secured with clamps or construction tape.

Cylindrical insulation is selected to match the diameter of the chimney pipe
Cinder concrete slabs. Most often used for thermal insulation of brick pipes. The slabs are attached to the walls of the structure, after which they are covered with plaster mortar.

Cinder concrete slabs are used for insulation of brick chimneys
Plaster mortar. Prepared from special heat-resistant mixtures. For greater efficiency, the solution is applied in three layers, each layer thicker than the previous one. For effective insulation, the thickness of the plaster must be at least 4 cm. It is applied to a reinforcing mesh that serves as a frame.

The choice of insulation method depends largely on the material of the chimney. It is also necessary to take into account the strength of the structure on which the structure will be installed. Heavy thermal insulation can over time push through the ceiling and cause its deformation.

Choosing a thermal insulation method depending on the chimney material

Gone are the days when chimneys were made primarily of brick. With the advent of gas and solid fuel boilers, they began to be made of metal, and asbestos pipes are also not uncommon. Insulation of different pipes requires an individual approach.

Insulation of metal pipes

To insulate the pipes of fireplaces and stoves that are not the main source of heating, but are used periodically, it is enough to plaster the pipe. This method is most often used for brick pipes, but is also applicable for metal ones.

For chimneys of furnaces and heating boilers, a different method is used. These are so-called sandwich chimneys. Such designs are available for sale, but they are not cheap. If you have a limited budget, you can make them yourself.

You can buy a sandwich chimney at the construction market or make it yourself

You should not use a galvanized pipe for the chimney. When exposed to high temperatures, zinc evaporates, forming toxic compounds that are harmful to health.

Asbestos pipes are also insulated using the same principle. In addition to mineral wool, you can use bulk insulation.

Thermal insulation of asbestos pipes

Mineral wool is considered the best insulation for asbestos pipes. This material is most often covered with a moisture-proof protective film, which is very important for asbestos because of its ability to absorb moisture. For thermal insulation with bulk material, a protective casing must be installed around the pipe, into which the insulation must be poured. To prevent moisture from entering from above, the gap between the pipe and the casing is filled with cement solution.

Insulation of brick chimneys

Brick, like asbestos, can become saturated with moisture, so it is important to think not only about insulation, but also waterproofing. The simplest way- plastering, but it is much more reliable to do this with mineral and basalt wool.

A brick chimney can be protected and insulated by plastering

Insulation with slag concrete slabs and mortar or panel materials is also suitable.

The method of insulation needs to be thought out at the stage of chimney construction; in some cases, it will be necessary to lay wire for fastening into the masonry in advance so as not to spoil the brick.

Do-it-yourself insulation - procedure

Before you start installing thermal insulation, prepare everything you need for work. Clean the pipe from dust, repair cracks and chips. It is important that the surface is dry, otherwise the quality of thermal insulation will decrease.

Plastering

Video: plastering and insulating the chimney

Lining or sandwich chimney

When working with fibrous materials, protect your respiratory system with a mask or a damp cloth with an elastic band.

Video: instructions for making a sandwich chimney

Lining a brick chimney

The method described above is suitable for metal and asbestos chimneys; brick chimneys will require a lot of effort and time.

Wrap the insulating layer with foil, this will increase its thermal insulation properties.

A casing is constructed around the chimney. Depending on the material, it can be round or rectangular in cross-section.
The gap between the casing and the pipe is filled with sand, expanded clay or broken brick.
Cement mortar is poured on top to prevent moisture from entering.

For insulation with expanded clay and other bulk materials, a casing is required

Such simple work will not only protect the chimney from destruction and extend its service life, but will also help to significantly save money by minimizing heat loss.

The article will discuss how and with what to insulate a chimney pipe. Several practical methods are presented.

Insulation of the chimney pipe is required to avoid leaks and overheating. Simply put, it allows you to increase the service life of the structure. Experts recommend performing complex work, which includes hydro and fire insulation.

Bath chimney

When insulating a chimney in a bathhouse, the safety of people should be a priority. The main threat indoors comes from open fire. Therefore, it must be protected by first making the ceiling resistant to high temperatures.

Basically, baths are built from wood, a flammable material. A very common misconception is the idea that covering the ceiling with metal sheets will be sufficient. But in reality, such protection is not enough. After all, the upholstery will still heat up, which can lead to fire. A popular solution to the problem is to insulate the chimney pipe with red brick. But this is not suitable for every bath design.

There are now two good options for chimney insulation:

Folgoizol. A bathhouse with such insulation will not lose heat; everything works like a thermos. At the same time, it warms up quite quickly, maintaining the temperature for a long time.
Teploizol. The material is used for winding the chimney.

A popular solution is to use sandwich pipes, which demonstrate a high degree of safety. The insulation design consists of several sections that are easily combined with each other. This option is also suitable for saunas with a metal stove.

It is important to approach responsibly brickwork in the bathhouse. The service life of the building directly depends on its quality. You cannot save on materials or work. After all, the need for repairs in the future will be associated with much greater costs.

Metal chimney winding

“What should I use to wrap a metal chimney pipe in a bathhouse?” - a popular question among summer residents. After all, there are many materials used for this garden. The absence of flammable substances in the coating is a primary nuance that must be taken into account. It is preferable to use high-quality material that has all the necessary properties. It should also be completely safe to use.

The most common materials:

Glass wool;
Fibrous building materials;
Mineral wool.

Insulation of a metal chimney

Insulation of chimney pipes of a metal chimney is a separate topic for discussion. After all, it contains a number of nuances, which will be discussed below. This is a very difficult task, so it is recommended to perform it during the construction of the bathhouse. It is more difficult to work with a finished building, because the roof may need to be reconstructed.

Good decision Sandwich pipes will be used. This design is easy to manufacture and will also reduce the cost of specialists. However, the material itself is not budget-friendly. But the service life and quality fully justify its cost. Sandwich pipes are additionally insulated with mineral wool.

How to insulate a chimney pipe is up to everyone to decide for themselves. It is important to remember that such insulation allows you to protect the chimney from negative impact combustion products, as well as moisture. If you do not take care of the insulation in time, there is a risk of destruction of the bathhouse. After all, condensate, enhanced by the action of acid, slowly destroys building materials. It poses the greatest threat in the spring, when the pipe begins to thaw (more details: " ").

Making boxes

How to insulate an iron chimney pipe was discussed earlier. Now you can move on to the next step. Many people think that making a chimney box is too difficult a task. In reality this is not the case. It is enough to approach the work responsibly and competently.

Required tools:

Drill;
Metal scissors;
Compass;
Metal sheets;
Self-tapping screws.

Stages of work:

Preparing the hole. Along the edges it is necessary to secure the bars, which will act as a support for the body.
Two blanks are cut from a metal sheet. They are given a U-shape. Then the finished parts are screwed to the ceiling using self-tapping screws.
Again, two blanks are made, but they are already secured to standing sheets with a small spade. This results in a seamless frame in the ceiling.
Now the bottom for the box is made from a metal sheet. There should be a hole for the chimney in the center of the workpiece; a compass will be needed here.
The box contains four two-centimeter fasteners. They are cut out and bent perpendicular to the bottom.
Walls are attached to the bottom. Now the chimney is inserted into the box, it is additionally secured with clamps. The voids are filled with an insulating layer.

Chimney installation

Installing a chimney is not as simple a task as it might seem at first glance. There are many nuances that should be taken into account. If the chimney is installed insufficiently well, this can lead to damage to property, as well as creating discomfort for the people inside and harming their health.

Stages of work:

The preparatory stage, where a work project is selected, materials are purchased, and the form of construction is determined. There are straight chimneys, as well as designs with various bends.
Now you can begin assembling the chimney. Pipe connections, elbows and tees must be secured with clamps.
Carrying a chimney through the roof using a special tool. To begin with, the level of the roof slope is determined, and based on the data obtained, a suitable location is selected. A hole is cut in it for the workpiece. Everything is insulated from above with a roof section, and from the inside - with a tire sheet. Read also: "".
A special apron is attached to the pipe. The pipe is extended to the required size, its top is partially insulated with a special umbrella-shaped lid. It will prevent precipitation from entering the chimney.

Chimney fastening

The workpiece must be brought to the roof through the attic. All cracks, especially the voids between the roof and the pipe, are filled with waterproofing. When removing the workpiece, you must remember safety precautions.

An elbow is used to secure the chimney pipe. It is designed to regulate the vertical position of the structure. To give everything reliability, the pipe is additionally attached to the wall using suitable brackets. Usually they are included in a ready-made kit. They can also be made by hand; it is best to use metal corners as a base for them.

Once the insulating structure is in place and securely fixed, it is necessary to cover the chimney pipe with an umbrella. It is designed to protect the structure from precipitation, poplar fluff and fallen leaves. It is also necessary to think in advance about how to coat the chimney pipe in order to prevent leaks.

Replacing a brick pipe with a metal one

If a brick chimney is not enough, it can be further extended using a metal pipe. The task is labor-intensive, but completely achievable. It is important to approach it with full responsibility.

To begin with, a flat steel platform with a pipe is made. Moreover, its diameter should be the same as the diameter of the metal pipe that is planned to be used. The platform must be securely secured. It is fixed with dowels and screws. Sealing will add additional reliability.

Work order:

On the brickwork you need to mark the points at which the fastening will be installed. They cannot be placed on a masonry seam. It is advisable to place them closer to the center of the brick, and not on its edge.
Holes are drilled in the marked places to place dowels. At the same points, holes are made on the flat surface; the self-tapping screws will go there.
Fireproof sealant is applied to the brick base, then a steel platform is placed there. Self-tapping screws are screwed into dowels. It is important to ensure tight fit and uniformity.
Now all that remains is to wait for the sealant to dry completely and proceed directly to extending the chimney using a metal pipe.

Important installation details:

If the length of the pipe section above the roof exceeds 1.5 m, it is recommended to equip it with special guy wires that strengthen the structure (read also: " ").
You cannot install a pipe whose length from the stove to the tip is more than 5 m.
Installing special plugs allows you to get rid of condensation.
The section of the chimney above the roof must be longer than 1.5 m.
You cannot narrow the pipe when installing the chimney.
Nearby structures made of flammable materials should not reach a temperature of 50 o C.
The chimney must not be placed near electrical wiring.

The decision on how to insulate a metal chimney pipe should be made based on the budget, as well as the needs of the structure. It is important to approach the task as responsibly as possible, carrying out work in full compliance with all standards and nuances. Then the chimney insulation will last a long time without complaints.

How to insulate a brick chimney, advice from professionals.

The chimney is the main part of the chimney system of a fireplace or stove, as well as any heating equipment that runs on liquid or solid fuel. That is why it is so important not only to install the chimney correctly, but also to insulate it.

Why is this necessary? The fact is that due to the difference in temperature between the environment and the chimney, condensation occurs inside the chimney during operation of the stove. If this moisture does not completely escape into the atmosphere, it will ultimately lead to the destruction of the chimney.

By the way, the rapid destruction of the chimney can also be caused by the formation and sedimentation of aggressive substances that arise during the combustion of any type of fuel.

Therefore, the chimney must be insulated so that it lasts as long as possible. On at the moment there are quite a lot different options chimney pipe insulation. However, here a lot depends on the material that was used to build it. This material will discuss methods for insulating a brick chimney.

Is it worth insulating the chimney?

Before you start deciding how to insulate a brick chimney pipe, you should familiarize yourself with the advantages of this matter.

Several points can be included here:

Insulation will reduce the level of influence of the external environment (wind, rain, frost, etc.) on the chimney pipe. Accordingly, you won’t have to repair it often.
Insulating a brick chimney will reduce the level of heat loss. Thanks to this, it will be possible to reduce fuel consumption.
Thermal insulation installed around the chimney also protects the roof to some extent from sudden temperature changes.

Rules for choosing insulation

In fact, when choosing insulation for a brick chimney, you should adhere to some rules:

In no case should you choose flammable or combustible materials, since the pipe itself and the part of the roof near it are exposed to high temperatures.
If you do not plan to contact specialists, then give preference to materials that you can install yourself. For example, glass wool, mineral wool, etc.
Be sure to carefully read the packaging instructions for installing the selected material.
You should not build any heavy structure. After all, you should understand that over time it can push through the roof.

Materials for insulating a brick chimney

To insulate a brick chimney from the outside, you can use several options:

Plastering.
Mineral basalt slabs.

Now let’s take a closer look at each of the above options for chimney insulation.

Plastering a brick chimney

The use of plaster when deciding how to insulate a brick chimney is quite common. This option does not require large investments and, in principle, there should be no difficulties with applying plaster.

Of the minuses, it should be noted that due to plaster, of course, it is possible to reduce the percentage of heat loss, but it is insignificant and amounts to approximately 20-25%.

If you decide to use this option, then to plaster a brick chimney you will need to perform the following steps:

First, the chimney is cleaned of dirt and dust.
Next, the reinforcing mesh is installed.
Then a solution of cement, dry lime and fine varnish is diluted in a clean container with the addition of a certain amount of water.
After this, you can begin applying the solution. The first layer should be liquid and have a thickness of no more than 4 cm. After the plaster has dried, the next layer is applied with a thicker consistency, up to 7 cm thick. The degree of thickness of the solution is adjusted by adding fine slag to it. In total, up to 5 layers are applied.
The last layer should be the thickest. In addition, it is a finishing material, so it should be well leveled and rubbed.
At the last stage, after everything has dried and cracks, if any, have been covered and rubbed, you can begin finishing, i.e. painting the chimney in the desired color to give it a more aesthetic appearance.

Mineral basalt slabs

Another and most effective option for solving the question of how to insulate a brick chimney is the use of mineral basalt slabs. The disadvantages of this option include the cost of materials and the difficulty of performing the work by one person.

The advantages of using mineral basalt slabs are:

Increasing its density, which allows reducing heat loss by at least several times.
In addition, this material allows you to increase the service life of the chimney.
The safety factor increases during operation of the heating system.
Due to the installation of mineral basalt slabs, the conditions under which condensation occurs inside the chimney disappear.

To insulate a chimney with mineral basalt slabs you will need:

The first step is to clean the surface of the pipe from contaminants. To do this, it is best to use a construction knife, as well as an angle grinder with a brush attachment with metal bristles.
Next, the mineral basalt slabs are cut to the required size.
The next step is to assemble the sheathing, consisting of special profiles. To make holes and assemble its supporting part, you should use a hammer drill and a screwdriver. The guide part is secured with dowels. When fastening the vertical posts of the frame during connection with the guides, it is necessary to maintain such a distance between them that the insulation can fit.
Next, the sheathing is filled with mineral basalt slabs. It is very important that there are no gaps between the plates, since otherwise the thermal insulation properties will be significantly reduced.

In the absence of sheathing, to secure mineral basalt slabs, as an option, you can use aluminum tape, wire retainer and studs with washers.